I discovered a white, sun-deprived pup in the bottom of a rootbound haworthiopsis.
I had intended to document the pup’s growth and recovery. I took several photos showing its transition from white to green. Unfortunately, while it was growing strong, it met an untimely demise. In the end, I realize I wasn’t that diligent in my picture taking.
The following is a short slideshow of how it fared. Click or tap for larger images.
Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are plants of the genus Schlumbergera, a sub-classification of the family Cactaceae (which includes all cacti). These late bloomers are great to keep some color during the cooler seasons, as they generally bloom close to the holiday for which they are named.
These holiday cacti aren’t quite the same as typical ground-dwelling desert cacti. They are actually epiphytes—they grow symbiotically on other trees in tropical forests in south-eastern Brazil.
Holiday cacti are flowering plants that have flattened leaf-like stem pads, which grow from the tips of each other in a chain. The pads have areole notches along the sides and at the tips. They have been cultivated to produce white, pink, yellow, orange, red or purple flowers that sprout from the areoles.
The most common problem people have when starting out with succulents is overwatering. Imagine a cactus in the wild. Where do you see it?—probably some sandy expanse, right? Succulents and cacti are typically desert plants, and as such they’re adapted to living in dry, arid environments. They are xerophilic, and aren’t used to receiving lots of water.
Overwatering can cause your plants to die pretty quickly. Too much moisture in the soil:
causes root rot
prevents plants from absorbing nutrients properly
attracts garden pests, and makes your soil a great breeding ground for them
promotes bacterial and fungal growth
Signs and symptoms of overwatering
wilting—succulents may become visibly sad and droopy looking
Pumice is one of the best soil additives to use when planting succulents and cacti. It absorbs and holds the right amount of water and nutrients, while creating space for aeration and fast drainage. Pumice can be better than perlite as an additive, because it doesn’t have the same tendency to separate out of the soil and float or rise to the top during watering. Continue reading “Garden Pumice review (General Pumice Products)”→
Sometimes your plants just aren’t getting enough light and need a little extra care. Most succulents prefer a minimum of 6 hours of bright, direct sunlight a day. When plants aren’t getting enough light they start to etiolate or stretch out in search of more. This causes the stems to elongate, leaving large gaps between the leaves, and losing the distinct rosette shape many succulents have.
Another instance where you might want a setup like this is to encourage and speed up propagation by having better control of growing conditions.
The other day I took a quick trip over to the Lowe’s garden center. Initially I was just going in to find a drill bit for a future project—hopefully I’ll be adding some drainage holes to some cheap ceramics and glass that will make great succulent planters. I’ll let you know how that goes in the future.
Of course I had to go look and see what they had in stock. I’m hunting for some Lithops or living stones—as usual nothing like that to be found. I sighed about the coloring crimes that were committed to these cacti and walked away.
It was labeled generically as haworthia asstd./haworthia spp. I’ve since been told it may likely behaworthiopsis coarctata, and a stop over at Wikipedia certainly validates the opinion that it is a haworthiopsis of some kind.
The plant looked pretty crowded in its pot, and I wanted to separate some of the pups for propagation.
Whether we’re talking about new plants you just brought home or one of your favorite plants starting to look sickly, a good safety measure can be to quarantine succulents.
quar·an·tine kwôrənˌtēn/ noun a state, period, or place of isolation in which people, plants, or animals that have arrived from elsewhere or been exposed to infections or contagions are placed.
So here’s the thing, pests and other problems can spread quickly among a close population, and big store shelves full of plants make excellent breeding grounds for them. When you bring home some new little succulent or cactus, you don’t really know what else you might be bringing in with them. Surely you’ve inspected the plant before buying it, just to make sure it’s in good health, but there could be pests, insect eggs, fungus, or bacteria in the soil that you won’t see. That’s why I recommend quarantining your new plants for a short while. Continue reading “Quarantine succulents to keep problems from spreading.”→
If you were potting some plants and ran out of fresh dirt, you can sterilize the old soil to make sure no contaminants are living in it before reusing. Because I was weary over my recent bout with pests, I was using a fresh new bag of Miracle-Gro cactus and citrus mix the when I decided to try soil sterilization, but you can also use this method to freshen up old soil before re-potting. Continue reading “How to Sterilize Soil”→
A little over a month ago nearly all of the succulents on my porch started showing signs of deterioration. It started with one pot at first—my most recently acquired echeveria. I watched in dismay as the problem spread to my other succulents over the course of the next two weeks. Leaves were falling off, and my previously fat little plants were shriveling up. After a thorough inspection, there were a few of the most common issues happening at the same time. Here’s why all of my succulents nearly died: